Choosing Design
Choosing design
Selecting a design for your made-to-measure shirt is partly about what goes together, but most of all it is about what you like. Once again, the purpose of the shirt and your personal style preferences should be the key considerations of your choice. Shirtonomy's ambition is to only offer the design alternatives that we find most compelling.
Uncertain? We have made it simple for you by always offering every fabrics default design options. The default design has been engineered to match each fabric's specific character to ensure our customers always have a well-matched shirt.
Collar style
Cutaway
This collar got its name from its tips which are shaped away from each other, giving it an elegant and tasteful appearance. The moderate spacing between the collar tips make the Cutaway model one of the most versatile of all. It works just as well with a suit as it does with leisure wear; or with a narrow or wide tie knot.
Full Spread
The generous spacing between tips gives this collar model a formal and elegant look, making it perfect to combine with a tie and jacket. While the Full Spread collar works with both a broad and narrow tie knot, it should not be matched with a tie that is too narrow. If you would like a collar model that works with a wider range of looks we recommend instead the Cutaway.
Turndown
Turndown stands out with its relatively long and downward-pointing collar points, a clear contrast to spread collar models that have been the default choice for business shirts in the past decade. Turndown has an significant gap between the points leaving space for a well-tied four in hand knot. The collar’s interlining is of medium stiffness, which gives a more relaxed impression. We strongly recommend that this collar be worn with a tie, preferably without collar bones, so that the collar points during the day get a smooth roll.
Extreme
Like the Full Spread collar, this collar has a broad open cut but has the the collar tips cut along the neckline on an even tighter angle. Because of the generous spacing between tips we recommend wearing the Tudor collar with a tie and jacket. It works with both broad and narrow tie knots, although you should avoid tie models that are too narrow. Make sure the tie is tightened properly around the neck to ensure exposing too much of the area around the neck.
Club
This collar originated with International English school students but today is perhaps more well known among preppy fashion ambassadors. The Club collar is a nice alternative for those who want to break with the more conventional collar models, without risking being seen as a pretender. We recommend it be combined with shirts of light single color, or with narrow striped fabrics. The collar also works well with a tie done with a narrow knot.
Sport Button-Down
Formal Button-Down
Hidden Button-Down
High Spread
The generous spacing between tips gives this collar model a formal and elegant look, making it perfect to combine with a tie and jacket. While the Full Spread collar works with both a broad and narrow tie knot, it should not be matched with a tie that is too narrow. If you would like a collar model that works with a wider range of looks we recommend instead the Cutaway.
Contrasting fabric collar
Shirtonomy's shirts always have, as standard, collars sewn on made of the same material as the rest of the shirt. For those who want it we do offer a full white collar (with the collars inside and outside replaced with a white fabric) or contrasting fabric on the collars inside. If you choose the full white collar we will naturally select a fabric that matches the shirt fabric's own quality and texture. Should you wish to choose a contrasting fabric for your cuffs, this can be done along with your other cuff related decisions.
Collar stays
Please choose if you would like the collar stiffeners, which provide extra stbility to the collar, to be removeable or not. The advantage with sewn in collar stiffeners is that you never need to remove them for washing, taking away any risk of losing or forgetting them. The advantage of removeable collar stiffeners is that you have more options as to how you wear the shirt. For instance, removing them would give the shirt a softer, more informal collar. You can also choose to have the shirt sewn without space for collar stiffeners, something that is obigatory for collar models Button down and Club.
Collar seam
Choose if you would like a standard collar seam (5 mm from edge) or if you want the seam to be adjacent to the collar's edge (2 mm from edge). Standard seam's are normal for modern shirts. Placing the seam adjacent to the collar's edge give a somewhat elegant impression that many appreciate. If you are unsure or do not have any particular preference we recommend choosing the standard seam. Note: the choice of seam for the collar is always matched on the outer edges of the cuff.
Cuff type
Single rounded
Classic rounded cuffs with a button that works well on almost all occasions. Their all-purpose style mean they can easily be combined with both formal and informal fabrics.
Short rounded
Based on the same cut as the previous cuff model, but somewhat shorter in length, resulting in a more casual look. For this reason these cuffs combine particularly well with some of our more casual fabrics.
Two button, angled
French rounded
Classic French (double folded) cuffs which always deliver a flawless, elegant and formal impression. These cuffs are suitable only in combination with a suit or jacket, and therefore should always be matched with our more formal fabrics. The choice of rounded or angular French cuffs is purely down to personal taste, although many argue that the rounded variety move more freely in the jacket sleeve. We advise that these collars be combined with the Button Down collar.
Angled French
A French cuff constructed in the same manner as the rounded French cuff and therefore maintaining the same level of formality. The angled French cuff worn is always worn with a suit or blazer and best combined with one of our formal shirt fabrics. We advise against combining these cuffs with the Button Down collar.
Contrasting fabric cuff
Shirtonomy's shirts always have, as standard, cuffs sewn on made of the same material as the rest of the shirt. For those who want it we do offer a full white cuffs (with the cuffs inside and outside replaced with a white fabric) or contrasting fabric on the cuffs inside. If you choose the full white cuffs we will naturally select a fabric that matches the shirt fabric's own quality and texture. Should you wish to choose a contrasting fabric for your collar, this can be done along with your other collar related decisions.
Placket
Smooth
The smooth placket is a good alternative for those striving after an elegant and formal look. The smooth placket is created by double folding the fabric on the shirt's inside. In our opinion the smooth placket works best when combined with a striped or single colored shirts.
Classic
The classic placket is double edged and works well with most fabrics. It is not considered to be as formal as the smooth placket as it creates a more rugged look. The classic placket is therefore a good alternative if you choose a fabric with more informal characteristics.
Popover
The Popover shirt has gotten much of its inspiration from the classic Piké. The placket stretches over half the cheste whilst the lower part are in one part. The result is a nice balance between casual and sophisticated.
The placket of the popover shirt consists of a total of four buttons (three studs and a COLLAR STUD) with a final enhanced Crosshem. You can combine your popover shirt with most of outfits as long as it gives a relaxed look, if you ask us.
We prefer to combine the Popover with a fabric of a more rustic character (oxford or linen), simple cuff and always select removable collar stays (which you remove and throw in the bin).
NOTE: Important information regarding your measures when buying a Popover shirt.
Since the Popover can not be unbuttoned all the way down like a standard shirt, your measure profile may have to be adjusted accordingly. The Popover is put on over the head (like a tennis shirt) and whilst the tennis shirt fabric is elastic our fabrics aren´t. Hence a Popover which is made very slim fit will not possible to put on.
We advise you strongly to create a specific profile for your popover shirt where you add about 1½ cm to your normal size for chest, waist and hip . If your regular profile dimensions are very figure hugging or if you have a marked wasp waist, you should add an additional few centimeters of the above mentioned dimensions to be able to wear your popover. Remember that the popover shirt of nature gives an relaxed impression, which means that there is not the same need to seek a quite as tight fit as your business shirt.
A tip for checking if your measures will work would be to button your present shirt up to the chest and then try to put it on over the head. If you manage to do that without too much of an ordeal your measures should be fine.
Button type
Luna
Nemo
Gizo
Diameter 10,1 mm; height 3,5 mm. True white with a typical mother of pearl lustre. Made from genuine mother of pearl.
Please note that mother of pearl is a durable and natural material that over time will gain a wonderful patina. We would like to raise a warning to those who feel the need to leave their shirts in the hands of their local drycleaner. Unfortunately not all drycleaners handle your shirts in the loving and respectful way that they should be cared for, creating a risk that buttons may be removed prematurely.
Coco
Diameter 10,7 mm; height 2,4 mm. Middle brown. Made of horn.
Java
Diameter 10,7 mm; height 2,4 mm. Dark brown. Made of horn.
Emerald
Onyx
Midnight
Other Buttons
Thread color
Button thread color
By default, all buttons are sewn onto the fabric with a thread that matches the color of the button. As Shirtonomy only offer white buttons our thread is also by standard white. Should you wish to use a different color thread please click on "Choose color" and make your choice.
Button hole thread color
As per standard our button holes are sewn with a thread that matches the color of the shirt's fabric. If you would like the button holes to be sewn in a difference color please click on the "choose color" and make you choice
The breast pocket is generally regarded as an informal addition. We believe however, that as long as you are not attending a wedding or a funeral, you should make this decision based on your own preference. On an Oxford shirt, the breast pocket can be a rather appealing option. Even in an office environment a pocket can be a welcome addition, as long as it is not used as your personal pencil case.
Height 13,0 cm, width 11,0 cm. Placed on the left breast
Slim Fit
Slim fit Means that two small seams are sewn into the lower back section of the shirt. This is done so that a section of the shirt's middle is moved from the shirt's back to the front, resulting in a more figure fitting form and reducing the risk of a puffy silhouette at the back. Please note that this will not affect the shirts overall dimensions. The shirts waist measurements are unchanged regardless of whether you choose to have slim fit or not. The only change is to its fit. As the vast majority of shirt wearers favour slim fit we fully recommend this option. Slim fit however, should be avoided where a loose fit is required.
Shoulder
The shoulder of the shirt can either consist of the 'standard' solid single piece of fabric or diagonally stitched pieces of fabric, the so-called 'split yoke'- The difference between these two options is primarlily cosmetic. The split yoke, which is more time consuming to create, gives off a greater feeling of old school hand made craftsmanship, while it can also provide an increased level of comfort because fabric is more elastic when worn across the diagonal.
Monogram
Monogram is another way of making your shirt even more customised. The monogram consists of maximum three characters and may be placed either on the left side chest/pocket, left cuff or left kidney. There are three different fonts to choose from. Shirtonomy takes no responsibility for the selection of monogram but will considering editing monograms that may be offensive.
In the example above, Arial, Times New Roman and MonotypeCorsiva
Do you have any questions regarding the choice of fabric, the choice of design or how you should do your measurements? Do not hesitate to contact us so we can clear up any uncertainties before you finalise your order. We will reply as quickly as possible and our belief is that almost any issue can be resolved!